How to choose the best toner for dry or oily skin – and why brands like Benefit and Tata Harper outstripped 90s Neutrogena

Experts from Wild Ice Botanicals and Optaderm outline the differences between toner types, while La Mer, SK-II, Aesop and Tata Harper present luxurious options

Back in the 1990s, a toner often meant that iconic clear Neutrogena bottle of blue or orange liquid, an astringent ally in the battle against teenage acne. However, as dermatological research advanced, it became evident that such aggressive treatment could damage the skin's barrier, leading to increased sensitivity and, ironically, more oil production as the skin tried to compensate for dryness.

Fast-forward to the present, and the scene has dramatically shifted. Awareness of potential harm done to the skin has led to fresh approaches to toner products, most recently further influenced by Korean beauty innovations. Today, toners and essences are less about punishment and more about pampering.

These formulations are typically enriched with hydrating, soothing and regenerative components. Ingredients like green tea, rose water and camomile extract are common, offering moisture, reducing inflammation and soothing the skin.

Do you have questions about the biggest topics and trends from around the world? Get the answers with SCMP Knowledge, our new platform of curated content with explainers, FAQs, analyses and infographics brought to you by our award-winning team.

"Skincare toners are liquid-based products designed to be applied to the skin after cleansing but before moisturising," Liudmila Busch, founder and master formulator at Wild Ice Botanicals, explains.

"Well-formulated toners help to balance the skin's pH levels (the main purpose of toners), remove any remaining traces of dirt and make-up, boost hydration and generally prime the skin for better absorption of subsequent skincare products," she adds.

"Toners help restore the skin's pH to about 5.5, which is essential as tap water quality deteriorates globally. This restoration not only refreshes the skin but also brings instant hydration and soothing effects," says Dean-Richard Johansson, head skincare scientist at Vancouver-based clinic Optaderm. Moreover, some toners include mild exfoliants that assist in "removing dead and dull skin cells, contributing to a smoother and more refined skin surface", he adds.

Over the years, toners have advanced to provide diverse ways to target different skin issues. "For normal skin, a toner with a neutral pH of 5.5 is ideal. Ingredients such as allantoin, caffeine and niacinamide are good options as they soothe the skin, calm redness and help the skin maintain a healthy balance," Johansson says.

But what about those with oily or acne-prone skin? Contrary to popular belief, toners are not off limits for those with oilier skin types. In fact, they can be a game changer in controlling excess oil production and minimising the appearance of enlarged pores. "Exfoliating toners target uneven skin tone and texture and are usually formulated with ingredients such as AHAs or BHAs to gently remove dead skin cells and to promote skin renewal," Busch explains. "Ingredients like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, oleanolic acid or nordihydroguaiaretic acid are effective at dissolving excess oil," Johansson adds.

When it comes to dry skin, the most benefits come from formulas with a pH close to 5.5 and with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, polysaccharides and aloe vera, while sensitive skin requires slightly more acidic toners - with a pH around 5.0 - to soothe irritation and reduce redness.

"In a slightly acidic state, capillaries shrink, and therefore redness is reduced. Ingredients like allantoin, niacinamide and vitamin E are beneficial for their calming, soothing and antioxidant properties," Busch says.

Among the icons of the toner world are Benefit the Porefessional Tight 'N Toned - a classic cherished for its pore-minimising prowess and its formulation featuring AHAs and PHAs to exfoliate gently without causing dryness or irritation - and SK-II Facial Treatment Clear Lotion Toner, which is formulated with Pitera, a proprietary ingredient packed with 50 micronutrients along with AHAs to help smooth out uneven skin texture.

But as the skincare landscape evolves, so too do our options. Enter Aesop Immaculate Facial Tonic, a newcomer making waves with its blend of botanical extracts. This vitamin-enriched, hydrating tonic delivers mild chemical exfoliation to even out skin tone, helping prep the skin for additional hydration.

For those wanting a touch of luxury, a plethora of high-end toners promise to take your skincare routine to new heights. Take, for example, La Mer the Essential Tonic, a cult favourite among skincare aficionados. Enriched with the brand's signature Miracle Broth, this toner not only hydrates and balances the skin but also infuses it with healing sea kelp and other marine botanicals. Or Tata Harper Hydrating Floral Essence, a lightweight formula featuring hyaluronic acid and humectants, which help leave the skin refreshed and rejuvenated.

Looking ahead, toners appear set to keep evolving. "Modern advancements in skincare, such as the incorporation of peptides and varying molecular weights of hyaluronic acid into toners, significantly enhance their effectiveness. These ingredients are quantifiable and provide measurable benefits to skin health," Johansson says. As skincare continues to evolve, expect these innovations to further help skin health and appearance post-cleansing.

More Articles from SCMP

China’s middle class is riding a wave of optimism for now, but can it last?

China retrieves its first reusable satellite in a quest to cut space research costs

Apollo Quiboloy’s Senate bid tests ‘unholy’ grip of religion on Philippines politics

Spirit of Hong Kong Awards: civil engineer helps to rebuild lives with dignity

This article originally appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), the leading news media reporting on China and Asia.

Copyright (c) 2024. South China Morning Post Publishers Ltd. All rights reserved.